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When the only way to reach a destination is by boat, you know it’s going to be good. The sunniest of Croatia’s islands, averaging more than 2800 hours per year, Hvar is guaranteed to be the ideal destination for plenty of Vitamin D. Whether you’re looking for a luxurious seaside escape, a taste of Dalmatian living, or want to island-hop for an in-depth Croatian experience, Hvar island is a fantastic introduction to the best of Croatia.

Winding stone lanes of Hvar’s Town, the rustic atmosphere of Stari Grad, and the shimmering waters of the Adriatic are just a few reason’s Hvar has become one of Croatia’s most popular tourist destinations. We were lucky enough to experience Hvar away from the peak of summer, giving us the opportunity to get to know every sun-soaked corner of Hvar Town, enjoy conversations with locals, and sample many of the best restaurants the island has to offer.

If I haven’t convinced you already, read on to discover the best things to do on Hvar Island.

How to get to Hvar, Croatia

An island set among the sparkling waters of the Adriatic just off Croatia’s beloved Dalmatian Coast, Hvar can only be reached by boat. Positioned between the neighbouring islands of Brac and Korcula, it is the longest of Croatia’s islands.

Being one of the most popular summer destinations in Croatia, there are regular ferries operating from mainland destinations including Split and Dubrovnik. You can check out ferry schedules here.

High-speed catamarans operate regularly to Hvar Town or if you’re travelling with a vehicle, you can opt for the car ferry which calls at Stari Grad in the northwest of the island.

When is the best time to visit Hvar?

Hvar is definitively a summer destination. Many of the island’s restaurants and hotels close over the winter, with the season typically awakening from April and shutting shop by October. Like much of southern Europe, my favourite time to visit is in shoulder season - mostly notably September. The days are and sea is still warm as the heat of summer lingers, but European and US school holidays are finished.

As one of Croatia’s most popular destinations, July and August are very hot and visitor numbers soar thanks to school holidays. May-June will offer warm, sunny days, but the sea will be a little cooler earlier in the season.

1 | Explore the laneways of Hvar Town

Set within a protected cove on the west of Hvar Island, Hvar Town is a beautiful labyrinth of light stone heritage homes where balconies and shuttered windows overlook the quiet laneways below. Foliage-filled stairs lead to hidden corners where everyday life plays out away from the main square brimming with well-to-do sailing folk and backpacking party goers.

Here you can find 13th-century walls surrounding beautiful Gothic palaces and pedestrian streets. Early mornings greet you with locals tending to their plants, chatting with their neighbours, and the smell of freshly-baked goods. Take the time to step away from the Riva and daily life in Hvar Town will reveal itself to those who are willing to find it.

2 | Walk along the Riva and the beyond

The Riva, or waterfront, is usually quietest in the middle of the day as beachgoers escape the day’s heat by one of the many swimming nooks on the island and yachts depart their nightly moorings to continue their island-hopping adventures.

Take the opportunity to watch the boats gently bobbing along the promenade before heading further west along the path leading to the iconic beach bars including Hula Hula. Venture beyond, passing by the Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort until you reach a cove and the sheltered beach Podstine.

On your way back into town, stop for a scoop or two of the most delicious gelato we’ve ever eaten outside of Italy, at L’Amore Per Il Gelato. Offering a selection of faithful favourites and daily specials, the flavour of this frozen treat was incredible. So much that some days we even returned a second time after dinner!

3 | Visit the Pakleni Islands

Just a short distance from Hvar Town is an archipelago of divine islands known for their crystalline waters. With the opportunity to visit ‘secret’ coves and bays, a day trip exploring the Pakleni Islands is one of the best things to do while staying on Hvar.

You have two options for heading to the Pakleni Islands. The first is to use one of the water taxi services that depart from the main harbour in Hvar Town and drop you at one of the various destinations across several of the Pakleni Islands, the most popular being Palmizana. Since we don’t have a boat license, we chose to hop aboard the water taxi which was quick, and convenient, albeit meant we explored more on foot and hoping between places than by throwing down the anchor.

Alternatively, you can hire a small ‘pasara’ boat and self-drive the short distance over to the islands. This gives you the freedom to explore the beautiful coves and bays away from the other day-trippers and move around freely throughout the day. They also come with a cooler to store food and drink for your day out. You will require a boat license that is recognised by Croatian Maritime regulations though.

Taxi boat | from €6

Pesara boat day hire | from €75-90 per day depending on time of year

4 | Dine on delicious Dalmatian cuisine

With the sea just steps away, seafood is a common feature on Dalmatian menus. From squid ink specialities to fresh-caught fish of the day delicacies, the quality and flavours of Dalmatian cuisine are some of the best.

Its proximity to other Mediterranean neighbours including Italy and Greece, the sea, and a mild climate all lend to the formation of dishes that feel reminiscent of food you’ve likely eaten elsewhere with a local twist. Think homemade pasta, fragrant olive oil, catch of the day seafood, and juicy tomatoes bursting with flavour.

We didn’t eat a bad meal at all during our time in Croatia, but some of our favourites while staying on Hvar were a mouth-watering truffle pasta at Black Pepper, perfectly cooked steak at Dalmatino, and for something a bit different, South American-inspired dishes at Fig Hvar.

READ | BEST RESTAURANTS, CAFES, AND BARS IN HVAR, CROATIA

5 | Sundowners at BackLane Craft Bar

An afternoon tipple at BackLane Craft Bar quickly became part of our daily routine in during our time on Hvar. So much so, that the owner asked how long we were staying, as we were one of the regulars now! Whether it was the perfect laneway courtyard full of plants, the welcoming atmosphere, or the expertly crafted cocktails, we were hooked.

Using a selection of fresh and local ingredients, the team of expert mixologists at BackLane create a rotating menu of seasonal cocktails that are both delicious and unusual. While they are more than happy to mix up your favourite classics, their creative concoctions are some of the best cocktails I’ve ever tasted.

Perch up late afternoon to bask in the lingering light of the day before heading to your next destination for dinner.

6 | Bask at Hvar’s incredible beaches

You can’t spend time on an island without visiting at least a few beaches. Whether you’re exploring nearby swim spots on two legs or have wheels to help you explore a little further afield, there are plenty of beaches on Hvar to lay down a towel and while away the day.

Pokonji Dol

Located a 25-minute walk east of Hvar Town, this is the most accessible beach for those looking for somewhere comfortable to spend the day frolicking in the sea. Crystal clear water kisses a small pebbled shoreline surrounded by pines and palms, with a selection of small restaurants to grab a bite and something to drink. This was our first choice of beach spots in Hvar Town, but it can become crowded as they day goes on, so recommend arriving earlier in the morning to find a place to throw down your towel for the day.

Bonj Beach

The closest beach to the town where you can take a dip, Bonj Beach is just a 10-minute walk from the main harbour. With a sense of luxury about it thanks to a collection of four-poster sunbeds, visitors can enjoy a sun-filled day while heading into the turquoise waters to cool off. Sun beds are available for hire, but tend to run higher rates than other Hvar beaches. It’s a great option for those looking for somewhere a short walk from town or close to the Amfora Grand Beach Hotel.

Podstine Beach

Continue further west along the coastal path, past the beach bars of Hula Hula and Falko Beach Bar to reach a cove framed by whitewashed rocks and overlooked by the Hotel Podstine. If peaceful is how you’d prefer to spend your day at the beach, this is the ideal spot. Deep waters make ideal for diving right on in, while sunbeds are available for those who’d prefer not to perch up on their towel on the rocks.

Dubovica Beach

Perhaps the prettiest of beaches on Hvar island, Dubovica is best left to those with a car. A wide, light pebbled beach is fringed by groves of olives and pine, tucked away in a secluded bay about a 15-minute drive from Hvar Town. For those who prefer to escape the heat of the day, both in the water and onshore, there is shade to keep you sun safe. The dazzling blue of the sea is ultra inviting, so it won’t take long to dip your toes in.

7 | Spend a day in Stari Grad

If you’re looking for an authentic experience in Hvar, a visit to Stari Grad - which literally means Old Town - will lend itself to discovering a quieter side to the isle of Hvar. A remedy for those looking to eschew the party atmosphere of Hvar Town, Stari Grad is a charming network of twisting stone lanes, rustic restaurants, and iconic buildings.

I absolutely recommend taking a bus 30 minutes to the north side of the island for some slow living. With all the charm but without the crowds, Stari Grad is also a wonderful base for travellers who want to unwind.

8 | St Stephen’s Square

The main square set just off the Riva is an excellent place to sit back and let time pass by. A hive of activity in the summer, St Stephen’s Square is the largest in Dalmatia. Skirted by a collection of Venetian and Renaissance architecture, everything comes to a centre point with Hvar cathedral and the bell tower overlooking the square.

The current cathedral now occupying the place at the end of the square was built on the site in 1605 on what was a 9th-century church. The three-naive style is typical of Baroque Venetian architecture of the era and would have once been used as a place for holding public meetings.

9 | Catch sunset from Hvar Fort

I love to find the highest point when I visit a place. It provides a new perspective, one often reserved for the birds. It’s why I headed up to spend the dwindling light of golden hour at Hvar Fort. The views take in vistas across the Pakleni Islands and the red-tiled roofs that cradle the Hvar Town waterfront. Don’t rush here, give yourself plenty of time to watch boats drift by, shadows stretch long in the late afternoon, and enjoy the postcard-perfect scenes unfold.

The Fort’s history dates back to the Byzantine era in the 6th century when a citadel was first built. Since then, it’s undergone several iterations. The Venetians altered the structure in 1278, which was later strengthened in 1551, and in the same century it also sheltered the people of Hvar when the Turks sacked their town.

10 | Head sky high at Napolean Fortress

Built on the 230-metre hill above Hvar Town in 1812, the Napoleonic fort is now home to the Hvar Observatory. While you can drive to visit the fort, hikers who take on the challenge will be rewarded with a journey through silvery olive groves, clusters of wild rosemary and lavender, and a sight usually reserved only for the birds.

The elevation gives way to views across the nearby islands of Vis, Brac, and Solta as well as the local archipelago of the Pakleni Islands. If you have the time, try to visit both fortresses to make the most of taking in Hvar Town and the surrounding views from every angle.

11 | Admire Hvar’s Franciscan Monastery

Nestled within a pretty cove, Hvar’s 15th-century Franciscan Monastery and the 16th-century bell tower constructed by stonemasons from nearby Korcula is a standout feature of Hvar’s waterfront, away from the busier St Stephen’s Square.

Inside, you’ll find a collection Greek, Roman, and Venetian coins and an ancient edition of Ptolemy’s Atlas from the 16th-century. Encased by a garden of cypress trees, the Franciscan Monastery was one of my favourite buildings in Hvar, especially under the glow of golden hour.

12 | Take a tour of the Lavender in Hvar’s hills

Hvar is known for its lavender production and you’ll see everything from soaps and bags of dried lavender to ice cream. Throughout June and July, the hillsides surrounding the town of Brusje on the road to Stari Grad are full of blooming purple lavender fields.

Join this three-hour tour where you can take in sweeping views of the island and its surrounds, take a walk through the fields, and learn more about the use of lavender throughout Croatia’s history. Finish with a keepsake and lavender flavoured desert before heading back to Hvar Town.

13 | Discover the flavours of Hvar with a wine and olive oil tasting

Croatia doesn’t have the same reputation for its wine and olive as neighbouring Italy or Greece, but its under-the-radar quality makes for the perfect tasting experience. Hvar’s wine-making is a legacy that remains since the ancient Greeks and it is home to several indigenous grape varieties, giving you a unique tasting experience.

If you’re in Stari Grad, head to Hora Farm on the Stari Grad Plain where you can pair a wine and olive oil tasting with a pre-ordered Dalmatian feast for lunch.

Alternatively, this 2-hour wine and olive oil tasting tour will take you to the vinogorje region of Hvar to visit a local winery near Jesla. You’ll enjoy a guided tour of the vineyard before joining a wine tasting and food pairing experience.