Badija and Vrnik: A Guide to Exploring Korčula’s Škoji archipelago
Surrounded by the crystalline waters of the Adriatic, Badija and Vrnik are two of the most-loved isles in Korčula’s idyllic Škoji archipelago. The scent of pine mixed with sea salt wafts on a warm summer breeze as tiny waves gently lap at white shingle beach shorelines. Against the backdrop of the mountainous Pelješac peninsula rising above the horizon, a day spent island hopping is best done in southern Dalmatia.
Exploring the stunning islands of the Škoji archipelago was a spur-of-the-moment decision for us. It was our second summer in Croatia and we had built in plenty of time to just go with the flow and feel out our destinations. It was the kind of slow travel we enjoy most.
Having made the daily walk into Korčula Old Town, we had passed the water taxi boat service dozens of times and the images on the boards near the marina had done their job. Crystal clear waters, dense pine forest, kayaking, and even a friendly herd of deer - I was sold.
Before arriving in Korčula we’d never heard of Badija or Vrnik. In fact, we’d not even heard all that much about Korčula either, but we knew we loved Croatia - the beaches, the people, the food, the wine - so we booked it wanting to explore new destinations for the summer.
Croatia is known for its brilliant coastline and the islands of southern Dalmatia are the perfect example of that. Setting off mid-morning after breakfast, we boarded the 10:30 am hop-on hop-off taxi boat service to explore the Škoji islets. The first stop on our itinerary, Badija.
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The largest of the islands in the archipelago, Badija is famed for its 14th-century Franciscan monastery and unspoiled pine forest with a circular walking trail. Idyllic coves are the perfect place for a picnic, and picturesque beaches are some of the best for swimming.
Continuing toward Badija, the waters were some of the bluest we’ve ever seen. Clear and calm, it took every ounce of self-control not to dive in right there. As we rounded into the main sheltered bay of Badija, the monastery came into view, the Pelješac peninsula mountains framing the island from behind.
Stepping onto the pier, fallow deer in shades of chestnut and umber greeted us, begging for any snacks we may have bought to gift them. It was then I knew we had made the right decision. Exploring Badija and Vrnik was one of the highlights of our time on Korčula.
After rounding out the journey over to Vrnik, the boat passed by Lumbarda on the eastern end of Korčula island, where passengers who were planning to spend their day by the white sand beaches of this quaint fishing village disembarked.
Here’s a guide to help you get the most out of your visit to the Škoji islets. From how to travel around and what to do to where to eat, it covers everything you need to know to maximise your time on these ridiculously beautiful islands.
How to island hop in the Škoji archipelago
The Škoji archipelago is made up of a cluster of 18 isles, all accessible by boat. Badija is the largest of the islands in this archipelago, and Vrnik is the only inhabited island among them. The best way to island hop your way around this region is by boat, though some will choose to visit a few of the islands by kayak.
How to get from Korčula to Badija, Vrnik, and Stupe
The main islands of the Škoji archipelago - Badija, Vrnik, and Stupe - are easily reached by using the hop-on hop-off taxi boat service from Korčula. Make your way to the East Pier (Punta Jurana) where the boats depart regularly. The boards will suggest a schedule of departures every 30 minutes during the summer, however services sometimes leave early if they are full already.
The route will first stop in Lumbarda, followed by Badija and then Vrnik. A separate service runs less frequently, usually hourly, to Stupe Island which is further away. You can either use this service as a return journey or as a hop-on hop-off service, depending on how you want to enjoy your day.
We chose the hop-on hop-off version, first stopping in Badija and then making our way to Vrnik later in the day.
How much does it cost?
The best value ticket is the hop-on hop-off ticket that costs €20 per person for the day and gives you access to any of the services on the Korčula Town to Vrnik route. This will entitle you to move around between the islands throughout the day without buying individual tickets for every journey.
You can also purchase return tickets starting from €8 depending on your point of departure and final destination. This is a better option if you’re only intending to visit one of the islets in the archipelago or just visiting Lumbarda - though the bus is a cheaper option if you’re only visiting the latter. This is the company I recommend using for the island hopping ticket.
Tickets to Stupe are more expensive as it’s further away, with a single return ticket from Korčula to Stupe costing €24. Tickets are offered through a different company here.
Things to do on Badija Island, Croatia
Go swimming in the idyllic waters surrounding the island
There are plenty of stunning coves and bays to make the most of the crystal clear waters that surround Badija island, but our favourite was Pebble Beach on the north eastern side. A longer stretch of narrow, white shingle beach which provides shade under the pines was where we decided to lay our towels, read a book and swim for an hour or two. We also had the place almost all to ourselves for the majority of the time we were there, which was pure bliss - our own private paradise!
Explore the 14th-century Franciscan Monastery
One of the first things you will notice about Badija island is the Franciscan monastery. The terracotta tiled roof and stone building are mostly from the 15th century, with the cloister dating to 1477 and one of the most spectacular examples of Gothic Dalmatian architecture.
Franciscan monks from Bosnia were granted ownership of a portion of Badija island in 1392 and began building a monastery, where they continued to retain presence for the centuries that followed. While the monastery was used as a sports centre from the 1950s to 2000s, it was returned to the Franciscan order.
You can visit the monastery from April to October, with a daily morning mass and rosary with meditations, as well as evening prayer and Eucharistic adoration operating.
Climb to the St Catherine Chapel
Set on the hill just behind the Franciscan monastery is the Chapel of St. Catherine (Sv. Katarina). Dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries, visiting this chapel provides a lovely walk through the surrounding natural beauty offered by Badija island. The Chapel is located on the highest point on the island which reaches just 74 metres and takes only around 10 minutes to reach on foot.
Go walking among the pine woods
Badija is covered by macchia thickets and pine woods which a gravel path cuts through around the perimeter of the island. Gently rising and falling with the natural state of the island, you can look down over rocky coves or stop in at some of the numerous shingle beaches for a dip.
The path is around 5km in length providing a circular route. Without stops it will take you around 45 minutes, but the best of Badija is explored in its picturesque bays, so will likely take you longer.
Meet and greet the deers of Badija
If furry friends are your sort of thing (they’re definitely mine!) you’ll love the only full time residents of Badija island - the fallow deer. You’ll often find several of the herd members waiting for snacks from guests as they arrive to the island near the pier, but they are seen across the island elsewhere also.
As appealing as it may be to feed them, it’s best not to. They are very greedy and will definitely help themselves to anything you leave unattended. So keep your food sealed and close by if you’re picnicking.
Things to do on Vrnik Island, Croatia
Vrnik island is the only inhabited island among the Škoji archipelago islets. Less than half the size of Badija, it is best known for the quality of stone that is quarried here. The 20 or so houses on the island were once the homestays of year round residence, however are now used as summer homes instead.
Enjoy lunch at Vrnik Arts Club
While the dining options are limited on these islands, the best food can be had at Vrnik Arts Club. Situated just back from the beach front near the pier where the water taxi drops you off, you can enjoy light meals from burrata salad to seafood dishes and lovely local wine. Prices are a little higher than on nearby Korčula, they aren’t as bad as I was expecting given the limited options of places to eat.
Check out an exhibit at Our Lady of Succour
In the old school dating back to the 19th century, exhibits are held throughout the summer. Stop by here to take a look at some of the displays if there’s an exhibition currently displaying at the time of your visit.
Explore the quarries that date back to the Roman era
The stone on Vrnik island has been favoured since Roman times, with it being distributed in modern times as far as Washington DC for building parts of the Capitol building. You can engage in a self-guided tour of some of the island’s quarries and the remains of the once-thriving stonemason community.
Go snorkelling to see life below the surface
The rocky shores around the island give way to deep drop-offs and the crystal clear water makes it perfect to spot fish, sea cucumbers and tiny crabs that call the Adriatic home. There are plenty of places to pick up a snorkel set in Korčula to pack in your day bag if you didn’t already bring a set on your holiday with you.
Hire a kayak and explore by sea
Vrnik is located quite close to Korčula island and it’s possible to hire a kayak and explore the sea surrounding the island around Vrnik by kayak. If you haven’t ocean kayaked before, it can be quite different to kayaking on a lake, with currents making it easier in some directions and more strenuous in others. I’d suggest a decent level of fitness if you choose this activity just to ensure you don’t find yourself caught up without any oomph left.
Things to know before visiting Badija and Vrnik
While I’ve already covered most of the information you’ll need to make the most of your day trip exploring these stunning islands, there are a few more useful tips that will be helpful.
Food and drink options are limited on the islands, so I recommend packing a picnic to be enjoyed under the shade of cyprus and pine trees.
You may come across beaches marked with a sign that reads ‘FKK’ this means it’s a nudist beach - so just a head’s up if that isn’t your scene. There’s plenty of spaces that aren’t marked as FKK beaches too.
The last boat service departed Lumbarda at 18:50, passing by Vrnik and Badija on the return to Korčula Town. Be sure not to miss this!
Beaches on the islands are mostly pebbled, so bring some water shoes if you want to enjoy a more comfortable experience.
When is the best time to visit Badija and Vrnik?
Southern Dalmatia benefits from a Mediterranean climate and a sunny disposition for most of the year. Warm weather that lasts from spring and into autumn means there’s plenty of time to explore Badija, Vrnik and Korčula.
The water taxi service that connects the islets in the archipelago runs from May to mid-October. This will be a key factor in choosing when you visit, as many of the restaurants and accommodation options on the islands in Dalmatia also close over the winter months.
July and August are peak season for travel in Europe and it’s generally my recommendation to avoid this time of the year unless you're restricted by influences such as school holidays. Instead, June and September are great times to explore Croatia’s islands when the weather is still warm enough for swimming but the majority of the crowds have cleared out, making for a more enjoyable experience.
We had one of the beaches all to ourselves on Badija for close to an hour when we visited, which is exactly why we love travelling off-peak but still when the climate is ideal for our destination.
How to get to Korčula?
If you visit the surrounding archipelago, you’ll likely be staying on Korčula island. You can reach Korčula by ferry, like many of the islands in Croatia, with the closest and most popular routes running catamarans from Dubrovnik in the south and the car ferry from Orebic on the mainland just opposite. You can also travel in the opposite direction from Split, with services usually stopping in Brač, Hvar, and Mljet also.
