A short guide to Ortigia, Sicily
Ortigia is the beating heart of Siracusa’s historic centre; a place where honey-hued sandstone homes are framed by potted gardens and sunsets are paired with spritz in hand. This guide to Ortigia takes you from authentic Silician menus to ancient Greek ruins, uncovering the very best this charming island has to offer.
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Long shadows stretch along pebbled coastline and plants dress urban gardens - from cobbled laneways to Juliet balconies. Revellers sun themselves, spritz in hand. Cats stalk between narrow doorways and grey-haired men sip espressos in shaded corners. This is Ortigia.
I’ve fallen in love with Italy many times over, from the mountainous terrain of the Dolomites to the under-the-radar foodie hotspot of Bologna. But Sicily felt like home. Sometimes there are places that feel comfortable from the moment you arrive, like your favourite jumper or a pair of well-worn shoes, something about it is just right.
Sicily felt that way on the first visit in 2018. So I knew I needed to return, this time exploring more of the southeastern corner of the island. On my agenda were a few things; Baroque architecture, good food, and that classic Sicilian charm. Ortigia delivered all three.
A place where golden afternoons by the sea are never very far away and entire streets are shared only by the city’s resident felines, Ortigia is a little slice of heaven. It’s Italy, on island time.
In this guide, I share how to make the most of this historical hotspot from where to eat, drink, and stay, to what to see and do in Ortigia.
Where is Ortigia, Sicily?
Ortigia is a small island on the east coast of Sicily, kissing the coastline running alongside the city of Siracusa. It’s located approximately one hour from Catania and is adjoined to the mainland by two bridges.
Are Ortigia and Siracusa the same place?
In your research, it may become rather confusing seeing the mention of Siracusa and Ortigia. Sometimes, it may even feel as though they are the same place. In a sense, they are.
Syracuse (as it’s known in English) is a city on the eastern side of Sicily. Ortigia is the historical centre of the city - though not in the centre at all. Instead, it’s the equivalent of what many other cities and towns refer to as the ‘Old Town’.
The island of Ortigia is so close to the mainland that you’ll likely miss moving between one island and the next as it feels like a harbour more than a coastline. Ortigia is synonymous with the historical roots of Syracuse, formed as a naturally fortified settlement during the time of the Ancient Greeks.
As the ‘Old Town’, Ortigia is the area that travellers frequent, but it must be known that it is intertwined with the Siracusa in almost every sense - from transport connections to sightseeing.
Best restaurants in Ortigia, Sicily
Italy is synonymous with incredible food. A cuisine that needs no introduction gets an island spin when in Sicily. Known for its catch-of-the-day seafood, exemplary wines, and arancini, Ortigia also adds pistachio to its repertoire - from pastries to pesto.
There’s no short supply of excellent choices for where to eat in Ortigia, but I’ve listed places that I wholeheartedly recommend based on my own experiences there.
Scialai | Set in a stone laneway set back from the street, this quiet restaurant served up delicious locale specialities from mussels to pesto. Paired with great local wines and a cosy atmosphere, it was one of our favourite dining experiences in Ortigia.
Sicilia in Tavola | Authentic Sicilian cuisine coupled with an understated interior are why this restaurant needs an advance reservation for dinner - because the emphasis is on quality Sicilian dishes.
Trattoria del Buongustaio | A local eatery just around the corner from Umbertino Bridge, the food was excellent and the prices a little cheaper than most restaurants closer to the centre. Plenty of quality Sicilian dishes to choose from, including caponata and pasta alla norma, as well as a tonne of fresh seafood.
A Putia | Every day there was a line queued down the street for this small, kitschy eatery. And while it wasn’t my absolute front runner while in Ortigia, it was a good meal and one of the cheapest we ate - quality for an affordable price. I would say skip the tiramisu for dessert if you really like coffee though, as this didn’t have the flavour kick I would have hoped for.
EVOÈ | After stumbling on this restaurant, we left pleasantly surprised by just how incredible our meal was. A standout was the almond and basil pesto-crusted sea bass with orange salad. With excellent wines to pair with your meal, don’t let the unassuming exterior mislead you - the food is great.
MOON | If you’re looking for vegan dishes that take on traditional Sicilian recipes, then MOON is the best on offer in Ortigia. It was always brimming anytime we walked down the street this restaurant is located on, so I do recommend booking ahead.
Pasticceria Artale | From cappuccinos to cannoli, espressos to pistachio tarts, Pasticceria Artale does a mid-morning pick me up well. Tiled tables are perfectly perched for people watching as the world goes by.
Il Cucchiaino | The best gelato I had on this trip was from Il Cucchiaino. They don’t have a huge variety of flavours, but you can’t go past the home favourite pistachio or a creamy hazlenut.
Biblios Cafè | A cosy cafe that doubles as a laneway bar where tables are draped by leafy vines, this was a magical find for a 5pm spritz. It was also the only menu I came across which served Limoncello spritz, a little favourite of mine!
Lungomare Alfeo | This seafront street stretches along the lower western corner of the island and makes for the ideal place to perch for a few sundowners. From dedicated spritz bars to restaurants and cocktail hotspots, there are plenty of places to choose from. Mind, you will pay a premium for the view with drinks costing €2-5 more than in the streets nestled in the centre of the island.
Want the insider’s guide on the best food and wine? Join this Ortigia food and wine walking tour to uncover the traditional tavernas of the island.
Things to do in Ortigia, Sicily
Get lost among the white-washed streets
My favourite thing to do in Ortigia is wander the whitewashed laneways. Nonnas hang washing from their Juliet balconies as residents walk their dogs below. Cacti and tropical plants created potted urban gardens around contrasting doorways and locals carry their daily market haul back home in the mornings.
As much as Ortigia has to offer historically, letting your feet guide you as you weave between the streets, finding new squares that house cats lazing in the midday sun, that’s one of the best ways to explore.
The island is small and walkable at less than 1km long and even less than that wide, so you could walk the perimeter in under half an hour. Once you’ve traced the outer road that encircles the island, head inward, stopping for a crisp glass of wine or a cappuccino and watch as the world goes by.
Head to the Ortigia Market
Vendors shouting the daily specials, scales tipping under the weight of the day’s catch, and the nimble hands of an oyster poser shucking. The sights and sounds of Ortigia’s daily market shouldn’t be missed.
Boxes of fresh spices and harvested nuts are spread over tables, jars filled with pestos and tapenades, and wheels of cheese on stainless steel fridge beds provide the flavours of Sicily. Grab some fresh ingredients for a picnic lunch or dinner in your flat. If you’re like me and need more than a pastry for breakfast, then this is the best place to grab fresh fruit and the prices are great too.
The market runs from 8am-2pm Monday to Saturday, though some vendors start later or pack up earlier. Seafood can also sell out earlier, so if you have something specific in mind, head there early.
Want to learn how to make those classic Sicilian dishes yourself? Join this Sicilian Street Food Cooking Class where you’ll learn the tricks of the trade to make those delicious arrancini and cannoli.
People watch in Piazza Duomo
There’s a reason the beating heart of Italian cities are built around the church. The Piazza Duomo, Ortigia’s stunning central square, is a suntrap traced by sandstone facades where balconies are dressed in flower boxes and cafes spill onto the sun-soaked pavement.
We were fortunate enough to be in town for the celebration of Saint Lucia, a young woman who made the pilgrimage from Syracuse to Catania to pray at the tomb of Sant’Agata. After refusing to renounce her faith, Lucia was sentenced to death, a beheading which took place in 304. Now, she is celebrated every year in a ceremony where a silver statue of her likeness is presented out the front of the church as crowds gather to pay their respect.
Even without sighting Saint Lucia, an overpriced cappuccino puts you in prime position for people watching across the piazza. The main draw though still remains the magnificent structure that is the Syracuse Cathedral. Built on the site of a 2000 year old temple dedicated to the Greek goddess of Athena, it was converted to a church in the 7th century.
For those who wish to peep inside, it costs €2 to enter and as with most religious sites throughout Europe you do need to cover your shoulders and knees.
Sip spritz at sunset on Lungomare Alfeo
On the western side of Ortigia is Lungomare Alfeo, the best perch for a few sundowners. From dedicated spritz bars to sun-drenched wine hotspots, watching the afternoon while away as the sun slips over the horizon is best enjoyed here.
We made time to find our way here each afternoon, sometimes for a drink, other times simply for a stroll as day slipped into night. In the summer, from around 6pm onwards chairs begin to fill and the clinking of glasses chimes through the hum of conversation.
It’s the perfect way to end the day.
Prices here reflect the privilege of perching along Lungomare Alfeo, but given the Western aspect, it makes for the perfect place to spend an hour or two around sunset .
Shop for locally made souvenirs
From leather goods to ceramics, limoncello to jewellery, there are some brilliant shops belonging to local artisans and vendors in Ortigia. While a magnet is a pretty solid souvenir for most, I always enjoy picking up something locally crafted on my travels. Sicily is one place that is particularly great for this.
Our Soul | If beautiful, handmade ceramics are your thing (they’re certainly mine) then Our Soul is one of the best small businesses I came across in Ortigia. From cups and plates to ornaments and Christmas decorations, the couple behind this concept finish their ceramics with local motifs. Think lemons, lavender, and octopus - it’s too cute not to come home with something.
Ebano | If you’re looking for handmade leather goods, Ebano is the place to go. From bags to pouches, they use a range of recycled materials and Tuscan leather to create unique styles in all manner of shapes and sizes.
Monica Castiglioni | If you want a unique piece of silver or bronze jewellery, stop by Monica Castiglioni’s Ortigia showroom. From rings to bangles to earrings, it’s a great way to pick up a wearable memento of your travels.
Take a boat tour
Surrounded by the sea, it makes sense to find yourself on it at one point or another during your time in Ortigia. Make the most of long days with a coat tour around the island. Explore the caves around the island and take in the sights from the sea with this 1.5 hour tour.
For a sunset experience with prosecco and charcuterie platters, this 2-hour tour encircles the island before stopping for swim and finally finishing with drinks and snacks on the way back to the harbour.
Visit the beautiful Baroque towns of the Val di Noto
If you are basing yourself in Syracuse or Ortigia for a few days, why not explore the undeniable charm of the UNESCO-listed towns of the Val di Noto?
Catania, located north of Syracuse, is the largest of the Val di Noto cities, and Noto, Modica, and Ragusa are the most popular towns that can be easily reached by public transport. Noto is just 30 minutes by train from Syracuse and has more recently surged in popularity thanks to its feature in season 2 of White Lotus.
Modica is best known for its chocolate made from traditional Aztec methods, while Ragusa is a split city whose Baroque charm was reborn following a major earthquake in 1669.
Prefer to join a guided tour? Leave the planning up to someone else on this day tour to Modica and Ragusa where you can explore the Baroque architecture and stunning gardens of Ragusa Ibla before learning about the locally made chocolate in Modica.
Noto, Sicily
Does Ortigia have beaches?
Despite being a small island surrounded by the sea, Ortigia isn’t what I’d call a beach break. Sicily doesn’t offer many sandy beaches, instead, they are pebbled like many across Europe.
If you do need to cool off, there is a town beach - Spiaggia di Cala Rossa - which is a pebble/shingle beach with a small space. It can easily get crowded in the height of summer. Alternatively, you can find a place to perch at Forte Vigliena which makes for an excellent swim spot, even without a beach!
If you plan to make a day of it, then heading a little further afield will offer more choices for beaches, even those with sand.
My main choices would be; Fontane Bianchi which features a wonderful stretch of white sand and is easily accessible by public transport - making it an ideal choice. Avola Beach is another popular choice located in the nearby city of Avola. Because of its accessibility, including a train station, it can quickly become crowded in summer but is a favourite for a reason.
Where to stay in Ortigia, Sicily
Ortigia is the historic heart of Syracuse and the place to stay for scenic views, charming whitewashed streets, and the best of the island on your doorstep. If you’re on a tight budget, you may find something more suitable in Syracuse on the mainland, rather than Ortigia, but the walk is only 20-30 minutes depending on where you’re based. I’ve included some accommodation options in Syracuse at the end of this list.
Hotels
Grand Hotel Ortigia | If luxury is what you want, look no further than Grand Hotel Ortigia. Boasting a stunning terrace with sea views, spa facilities, and traditional Sicilian styling, this is one charming retreat near the harbour. Check pricing and availability here.
Ortigia Boutique Palace | This sustainable aparthotel exudes a sense of luxury for an affordable price. Housed in a historic whitewash and sandstone building, the property has stunning modern facilities with a sense of tradition, right in the heart of the Old Town. Check pricing and availability here.
Hotel Roma | Right by the cathedral, the soft pink facade of Hotel Roma encases a stylish stay within moments of the highlights of the island. From alfresco breakfasts to views of the Duomo from your balcony, this is a top hotel choice. Check pricing and availability here.
Henry’s House | If you’re in search of a unique stay, Henry’s House features bohemian styling with wrought iron beds and a little splash of extravagance in the decor department. A sun terrace and sea views make this quirky stay a popular choice, even if it is on the higher end of the market. Check pricing and availability here.
Apartments and B&Bs
Casadelmar Ortigia | Tastefully finished with a modern boho twist, these apartments are just minutes from Cala Rossa. With just a handful of apartments on the premises, you’ll also have access to a stunning rooftop terrace for aperitivo hour or sunbathing with a book. Check pricing and availability here.
Isabella di Castiglia Apartments | Feel like a local tucked away in the delightfully renovated, plant-filled courtyard of Isabella di Castiglia Apartments. These idyllic rooms are finished to a high standard with stone and wooden detail that is authentic with a modern spin. Check pricing and availability here.
L'alba di Ortigia a due passi dal mare | Budget-friendly apartments with a kitchen and a terrace with a sea view, this is a steal in Ortigia at a very affordable price without compromising comfort. Check pricing and availability here.
4 Elements Boutique Home | Contemporary and stylish, this cosy B&B has everything you need for a comfortable stay in the centre of Ortigia. With a kitchen and space for outdoor dining, you can make the most of the local produce with breakfast alfresco style. Check pricing and availability here.
Ortigia's Queen | A brilliant two-bedroom apartment just moments from the Fontana di Diana, this is perfect for friends or families travelling who want to stay just a stone’s throw from the best of Ortigia. Check pricing and availability here.
Frida apartments by Dimore in Sicily | I stayed at this incredible two-bedroom apartment with a friend and it was everything we could have asked for. Perfectly situated right by the Umbertino Bridge, it was only a 15 minute walk to the train station and five minutes from the life of Ortigia’s centre. Check pricing and availability here.
Accommodation in Syracuse
As I mentioned earlier, accommodation can be a little more affordable in Syracuse, so I’ve selected a collection of apartments, B&Bs, and hotels I’d recommend.
Isonzo Suites | This is my top pick in Siracusa. A guest house with rooms equipped with kitchens, seating spaces, and a garden, guests can also access a coffee shop and packed lunches. Rooms are modern and absolutely stunning. If I was visiting again solo, this is where I would stay. Check pricing and availability here.
Near Ortigia | Close to the station and within a short walk of Ortigia, this B&B is perfect for budget-conscious travellers. You’ll have access to a shared kitchen, so you can prepare some meals to keep costs low. Check pricing and availability here.
Domus Vittoria Siracusa | A collection of beautiful one-bedroom apartments, this place has everything you need for a comfortable and affordable stay. Located just a few minutes from Basilica Santuario Madonna delle Lacrime, the apartments come with a kitchen and stylishly finished interiors. Check pricing and availability here.
Byssus Suites | If high-end minimalism is your style, then this superbly finished B&B is a top choice. Just a short walk to Syracuse train station and Ortigia, as well as the benefit of private parking, an onsite coffee bar, and buffet breakfast each morning. Check pricing and availability here.
Parking in Ortigia
If you’ve hired a car to enjoy a road trip in Sicily, you will want to know where the best parking for Ortigia is and a few key rules and regulations you should be aware of. As Ortigia is the Old Town, much of the island is pedestrianised or requires a resident permit to access.
If you are staying on the island, or visiting for a day, you need to park in a designated parking area and not use street parking. Street parking in Ortigia is only for residents and fines are applicable.
Instead, there are two car parks you can access. The first car park in Ortigia is Molo Sant'Antonio car park which is about 150 metres from the Umberto bridge which connects the island to Syracuse. This will place you close to the entrance of the island, taking only two minutes on foot.
The second is the Talete car park which is located on the island itself. Make your way to Via Malta which will lead you to the Santa Lucia bridge. This is the first gate for the limited traffic zone, marked by ‘ZTL’ signs. You can access the car park from the bridge next to this, Umbertino bridge, and from there follow the signs marked to the car park. You can access Umbertino bridge as it is not part of the ZTL.
Both of these car parks in Ortigia are paid, but the first 15 minutes are free. If you will be using either of these while staying on the island, both offer a day rate of €10/day or €30/week. If you’re just visiting for the day, Talete car park is cheaper, but not by much (€0.50/hour cheaper).
How to get to Ortigia
While there is no airport in Syracuse, reaching Ortigia is relatively simple once you touch down in Sicily. The closest airport is in Catania, approximately 60 km from Syracuse and the good news is that public transport is readily available.
FROM CATANIA AIRPORT
If you are heading straight from Catania airport, the best way to reach Ortigia is via a coach directly to Syracuse. The best service is operated by Interbus and the journey to Syracuse takes approximately 70 minutes. Tickets cost €6.40 and can be purchased online in advance or at the ticket booth near the bus stop at the terminal exit.
There are numerous stops throughout the city, though none will take you all the way to Ortigia. Disembark the bus at Corso Gelone which is the last stop on the route, from there it’s a 10-minute walk to Ortigia.
If you’re hiring a car, the journey time is usually a little under one hour along the E45. I always hire cars through rentalcars.com because it gives me plenty of choices from various providers, as well as insurance and free cancellation options, all within one convenient website.
BY BUS
While Italy has a reputation for having a great train network, buses are the better way to go in Sicily. Bus routes can connect you to other cities including Taormina, Catania, and Palermo, as well as the nearby Baroque beauty of Noto.
Interbus operates most routes and as there are a limited number of services daily, I recommend buying tickets in advance which can be purchased online. For most services, Corso Gelone is the last stop on the route and the closest to Ortigia. From here, it’s a 10-minute walk or you can catch the electric shuttle bus to take you.
BY TRAIN
Siracusa is the last train station on the mainline railway on the eastern side of Sicily and offers direct connections to Catania within an hour, Taormina (via direct and changing services), as well as destinations in mainland Italy including Rome and Naples. I even saw routes going as far as Milan, though these take the better part of a full day and require an overnight journey.
There are also local train services to Noto, Modica, and Ragusa, though the trains are a single carriage and can become crowded in the summer months and on weekends. Train travel in Sicily is affordable, though slightly more expensive than buses, and departures are less frequent.
If you are travelling to/from Palermo to Ortigia, you will require at least one change when travelling by train, and buses are usually a more convenient choice for this route.
Siracusa train station is located approximately a 25-minute walk from the centre of Ortigia, and we walked this route several times during our stay to visit other towns and cities within reach for a day trip.
How long to spend in Ortigia
If you’re visiting Ortigia/Syracuse as part of a longer itinerary in Sicily, I’d recommend no less than two days to make the most of the sights and dining here. This would be best if you’ve hired a car and are taking a road trip across the island.
If you’re using public transport, Ortigia/Syracuse makes for a great base with connections to other towns and cities in Sicily. I stayed in Ortigia for five days and took day trips to Noto and Ragusa which can be done via train or bus from Syracuse. This will save you from moving around with luggage, though I can certainly see the charm of staying in other towns nearby.
Is Ortigia, Sicily worth visiting?
If you’re wondering whether to add Ortigia to your Sicily itinerary, I have to say it is absolutely worth visiting. It would be a shame to miss out on this unequivocally charming island in the east of Sicily, which is why I based myself here for five days - so I could soak up every corner from morning until night.
