72 hours in The Lake District, England
The Lake District is one of the UK’s most spectacular regions, rendering it a popular choice for Brits and foreign travellers alike. Set in the far northwest of England in Cumbria, the area is known for it's outstanding natural beauty. Ribbon-like glacial lakes, craggy fells and green as far as the eye can see welcomes visitors. From quaint slate cottage filled villages to endless hiking opportunities, the Lake District is an excellent choice for a long weekend getaway. With staycations surging in popularity in 2020, now is an excellent time to explore the beautiful English countryside. At more then 2300km2, this guide focuses on spending three days based around Lake Windermere in the southern region of the Lake District.
Day 1: Windermere and Bowness-on-Windermere
Windermere is a village after the namesake lake a little over a mile away. Set on the shores of Lake Windermere is the lakeside town of Bowness-on-Windermere. You can easily spend a day exploring both villages as well as making use of the numerous walking trails, view points and activities on offer. Windermere is a great base, especially if you are accessing the Lake District via public transport. There are a handful of train stations within the south of the Lake District, however Windermere will put you close to the action.
Drop your luggage at your accommodation (we stayed at this lovely B&B) and set forth on exploring the streets, stores and cafes that trim Windermere to gather your bearings and enjoy the local atmosphere. During the summer and school holidays, the Lake District is a popular choice for staycations, so expect larger crowds. Once you’ve familiarised yourself with the local setting, head back toward the train station up the main road and continue straight (instead of turning right for the station) to make your way up to the Orrest Head viewpoint. The walk takes around 30 minutes one way and rewards you will a view across Lake Windermere, some local farmland and the surrounding fells. Wildlife is comfortable here and we spotted red robins, woodland mice and more on the way along the path.
Once you’ve enjoyed the delights of the everlasting greenery, head back into town and stop by The Crafty Baa for a pint. Specialising in craft beers from across the globe, they also offer several local brews if you’re looking for a taste made close to home. They also serve a selection of good pub grub, so grab a bite to eat or save yourself for fish & chips by the lake shortly.
Spend the rest of the afternoon by Lake Windermere in the buzzing village of Bowness-on-Windermere. Larger in size than Windermere village, Bowness is full of vibrant dining options as well as the launchpad for a number of lake-based activities including boat trips, fishing and more. Opt to take a one hour boat journey up Lake Windermere aboard one of the traditional steam boats absorbing the sights and sounds of the national park. Returning back to port, refuel with lunch by the lake or stop and enjoy and ice cream in the sun.
Bowness-on-Windermere is also home to The World of Beatrix Potter attraction. Unfortunately this was still closed when we visited in July, but its a wonderful activity for those with kids. Bowness-on-Windermere is only a little over a mile from Windermere, enjoy the walk between the two towns admiring the slate cottages and their manicured gardens along the way. Spring and summer are a real treat for this and I imagine the colours in Autumn would also be spectacular. Finish your day with dinner at The Lamplighter Dining Rooms.
Day 2: Grasmere and Rydal
Rise and shine! New adventures today include the village of Grasmere and Rydal, both associated with famous poet William Wordsworth (2020 happens to be 250 years since his birth). Parking can be limited in these areas, but there is also a ‘hop-on, hop-off’ style bus available that runs between Kendal and Grasmere which will connect you with Rydal and stops in Windermere among other places along the way. A day-tripper ticket will offer you the best value for money and will cost £8.50 for an adult for the Windermere to Grasmere route.
Head straight to Grasmere, travelling north along the shores of Lake Windermere, following the winding roads draped in verdant foliage. If the weather is pleasant, try to nab a spot on the upper deck for prime views of the route along the way. Reaching Grasmere in around 40 minutes by bus or 20 minutes if you’re self-driving, you’ll find yourself in a quaint village adorned with tea houses, a lovely garden centre and home of the famous Grasmere Gingerbread. Grasmere is small and won’t take you more than a few short hours to cover, but there’s a selection of walking trails nearby to explore.
After you’ve stopped by for tea and cake at Baldry’s make your way back to Rydal. You will have passed this on the Route from Windermere and the area is best known for Rydal Hall and Rydal Mount, the home of William Wordsworth. Take your time exploring the beautiful gardens of Wordworth’s home before exploring the displays inside and then head over to Rydal Hall to meander the manicured gardens here full of hedgerows and uninterrupted views across the neighbouring valley. Behind the hall and gardens is a wonderful little stone building set on the bank of a stream and waterfall. The leafy surroundings and sound of running water are wonderful for unwinding.
Day 3: Ambleside and Hawkshead
Close out your three day adventure in the south of the Lake District exploring the towns of Ambleside and Hawkshead. Ambleside lies at the north end of Lake Windermere and is an ideal launchpad for a plethora of hiking routes. If you didn’t succeed in jumping aboard a steamer trip on the lake from Bowness-on-Windermere, this is your alternative opportunity. Taking the same route in the opposite direction, it will take you south and return back to Ambleside. There are a few attractions in this town but it’s also lovely to spend a morning just ambling the streets and popping into the stores and tea houses, and admiring the slate houses set in tidy little rows.
The top attraction in Ambleside is Bridge House. Built more than 300 years ago over the Stock Beck River, it was likely a summer house and apple store originally. It is one of the smallest houses and has a varied history that make it one of the Lake District’s most iconic relics. Tucked away behind the township is a tremendous thundering waterfall that feeds the waterway nearby and is surprisingly well hidden. Follow Stockghyll Lane up behind the town and just a short walk from the road you’ll find yourself faced with the brilliant multi-tiered waterfall, Stock Ghyll Force. You can follow the path across the top of the falls and walk back to town via the forest path which runs alongside the stream. Once back in town, refuel with a bite to eat from The Apple Pie Cafe. They offer a full lunch menu and bakery offering, but as the name would suggest, apple pie is a must from here.
Head back to the main bus stop and take a bus over to the opposite side of the lake from Windermere to discover the whitewashed village of Hawkshead. Unlike the dark slate that most of the buildings in the area are made of, the majority of Hawkshead is awash with white cottages dressed with vibrant flower boxes. Several pubs, a relish store with plenty of locally made produce and a tea room are most of the attractions here. Quieter than Ambleside, it’s a nice way to enjoy a slower afternoon. Venture a little beyond the edges of town and you’ll find fields of cows and sheep, thistle flowers and seasonal blooms all in abundance.
Lake District Information
Public Transport
If you choose to use public transport to travel around the Lake District, Lake Windermere is a great choice as it has train connections from across the UK. From London, we caught a train which took a bit over 4 hours and made a change to a local line at Preston. If you use Windermere as your base, you can take advantage of the hop-on, hop-off busses to connect with nearby towns. A day ticket is the most economic option if you are planning to move between a few places within a day.
Hiking
Unfortunately when we visited the area had endured a week of solid downpours which meant a lot of the trails were very muddy. We weren’t equipped to tackle them so opted to skip this time, however we had planned on traversing Loughrigg Fell and Wansfell Pike. If you plan on completing any of the trails, ensure you’re well prepared. Weather here can change very quickly, it gets a lot of rain which means trails can be slippery and mobile reception can be patchy. The right equipment for your hike is essential.